by Barry Lewis
•
31 May 2021
People often ask us about our orchard in Wessington, which as many visitors know we’re very proud of. Here’s a bit of additional info about the orchard that I’ve been meaning to post for some time. It's a rather unique orchard and we think quite important and whist emphatically privately owned it is becoming a real community asset too, a place where as well as holding our tastings in better weather it is also where we hold events such as wassailing and our regular Wessington Orchard Farmers and Artisans markets. I bang on about orchards a lot. I've always loved them and lamented their loss in the landscape and so when the opportunity presented itself to plant our own I did it with gusto. They are such special places, so uniquely British with their own mythology almost, and become places where people can reconnect with nature and the seasons. We started planting some of these trees as two-year whips in 2011 and have added to the collection over the years, hence the variability in growth etc from north to south. It's beginning to show real maturity and have that feel of being a permanent part of the landscape, especially and the southern end. The following explains a little about the various varieties of apple trees that are in the orchard, many of which are regionally important: Beeley Pippin : A variety with a strong local connection being from the nearby village of Beeley, once very much in the heart of the Chatsworth Estate. Dates to 1880 and raised by the Rev. C. Scunthorpe of Beeley. A creamy yellow coloured, juicy flesh aromatic with a good flavour but do not apparently keep very well, which may well explain their demise with other better keepers available out there. Nonetheless a lovely tree with historically important local connections. Belledge Pippin : Another local variety from Derby and dating to 1818, which will eventually be researched by me in more detail. Apparently well suited to dessert or culinary uses and a good keeper and described as 'An excellent but not first rate apple' in Hoggs (1851), 'The British Pomology'. Newton Wonder : A South Derbyshire variety, an excellent cooker and consequently not as rare as the two above. Raised by Mr Taylor of King's Newton, Melbourne in the 1880s from Blenheim Orange X Dumelow's Seedling and received a RHS First Class Certificate in 1887. Has a good acid flavour and holds its shape when cooked. It's a good doer locally and we added two more trees back in 2016 and are a real favourite in the orchard. New Bess Pool : A special local (Derbyshire) variant of Bess Pool, a Nottinghamshire variety. Raised by J. Stevens of Stanton-by-dale sometime before 1850. Lambs Seedling : Planted in 2014 this is the last of the Derbyshire varieties to complete our collection and specially grafted by the National Collection at Brogdale, Kent. Raised around 1866 by the Head gardener at Meynell Langley, Derby - seat of the Meynell family, Mr Joseph Lamb. Lord Derby : We added this tree in 2016 because it may be a local variety, or is a variety that certainly has links with this County. Apparently from Cheshire, so perhaps close enough to be able to claim some genesis in Derbyshire. This Victorian variety is a sharp cooking apple that purees nicely. Other important local varieties include: Bess Pool : We have a couple of these important East Midlands varieties. Both Bess Pool and New Bess Pool are dessert apples. Supposedly named after their discoverer, the daughter of a local inn keeper Bess Pool, in a wood in Nottinghamshire and later introduced as a variety by a Chilwell nurseryman, Mr J R Pearson and first recorded in 1824. Sweet flavoured dessert apple that has a dry mouth feel that keeps reasonably well. Apparently late to flower. No East Midlands collection would be complete without the Isaac Newton Tree . We got cuttings from the one and only world famous apple tree from Grantham that gave us gravity via the national collection again. The famous and ancient tree, no doubt a slow grower like ours that sits in the grounds of the National Trusts Woolsthorpe Manor is believed to be a Flower of Kent . As I said, in our orchard it has proved to be slow growing and small compared to its peers that were planted around the same time. Obviously, it’s a long lived tree and has plenty of time to grow into its shoes! Now, the Duke of Devonshire apple tree sounds like it should be a local apple tree but it is in fact from Holker Hall, Cumbria, and was a tree created by the Dukes gardener Wilson, to honour him around 1835. A russeted sweet apple believed to be related to Ashmead's Kernel. It’s a lovely eater and we look forward to making a Duke of Devonshire cider at some point! Egremont Russet : From Surrey, this is the quintessential English russet with a beautifully balanced flavour developed by the Victorians. Despite russets being largely frowned upon because of their rough looking skins this is still considered one of the finest eating apples and has a loyal following. Cider Varieties: Northwood: also known as Woodbine a Vintage sweet cider variety. Red Stoke : Bittersharp variety Black Dabinett : A famous bittersweet variety with a distinctive apple. And the delightfully named Slack Ma Girdle , which is a sweet variety - we have this because the name is just fantastic! Other trees are Egremont Russet , William Pear , Commice Pear and a couple of Morello Cherry trees. The birds are particularly keen on the cherry trees and see more of the fruit than I do because I’m always too late to net them! On Derbyshire Orchards Orchards have their own special place in rural life, society and in our imaginations. Few things are more evocative of the historic English countryside than our ancient orchards. Many Derbyshire orchards have been lost over the years and now, slowly, people are realising just what has been lost and they are re-emerging once more. We have our own Derbyshire heritage varieties of apple trees too, which tells us that apples and undoubtedly cider were once a part of rural life locally. Derbyshire may not be as famous as Herefordshire, Somerset or Suffolk for its ciders but you can be sure local ciders were produced, reaching their zenith in the 19th Century. This long forgotten flavour of Derbyshire, made from a blend of local apples would surely have been unique to the area. In a few years we hope to replicate that flavour of Derbyshire ciders, produced from our own local apples. Anywhere apple trees were grown, no matter what their purpose be they dessert or cooking apples, a local cider was made to quench the thirst of humble agricultural workers toiling in the fields. And our great Derbyshire country houses would have had their own orchards showing that apple tree were important to all levels of society, such as those that can be seen at Hardwick Hall in their lovely walled orchard. Even Chatsworths’ kitchen gardens retain a few apple trees. The demise of England's orchards is a relatively recent phenomena, firstly as fresh, clean widely available drinking water replaced ciders and ales in the 19th century and the cider making industry favoured mass produced watered down cider over fresh, pure apple ciders in recent decades. Even in the parts of the country where apple trees are still grown for making ciders the traditional orchards of large old gnarled trees are much rarer than they once were. In Derbyshire our local apple trees were the Beeley Pippin, Belledge Pippin, Newton Wonder, Lambs Seedling and New Bess Pool. These are a mix of dessert and cooking apples, many have long been on the verge of extinction. We have researched and tracked down all these important local apple trees and will attempt to ensure that they have a permanent home in our orchard in Wessington. We planted the last of these old varieties, Lambs Seedling, in winter 2013/14. These were grafted for us by the National Collection at Brogdale, Kent. We now have a complete collection of Derbyshire apple trees. Remarkably, perhaps the only complete collection in the county and the only place in the UK outside of the National Collection where you will find them all together (we'd love to be proved wrong!). These are the ideal apple trees to grow locally as they reflect the character and climate of Derbyshire and we hope will make ciders that taste like those made in a long gone age - a true taste of lost Derbyshire. And finally, in future years we’ll graft Derbyshire cider apple vars onto various rootstocks and look to sell them on and hopefully ensure their survival!